The sump hose runs to the laundry tub
The Town Code forbids it: groundwater may not go into the sanitary sewer. Moving the discharge outside is discharge line work, priced in writing before we start.
Sump pump replacement in Warrenton: $697 installed in your existing pit. A new pit, a battery backup, outside drain work or new wiring is extra.
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Two of our technicians in a basement mechanical room, beside the furnace and a gas water heater.
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The price is settled before the workYou see the number in writing before anything is taken apart
What it costs
The same price as our sump pump replacement page: one flat number for a new pump in a pit that’s still sound, with what costs extra named right beside it.
Sump pump replacement, installed in your existing pit
$697
Sump pump and battery backup, installed together
$3,200
or $53/mo at 0% APR for 60 months
A new or deeper pit, discharge line work outside, or a dedicated circuit
Priced in writing before we start
Monthly figures: 60mo @ 0% APR on each starting price, the whole price financed, on approved credit. Longer plans lower the payment and cost more in total. The lender sets the final terms. How financing works
$697 covers a new cast iron pump, a quiet check valve, new PVC up to your existing discharge line, a battery water alarm by the pit, the old pump hauled away and a bucket test before we leave.
A battery backup keeps pumping through a power outage, and the outage usually comes with the storm. With a new pump, the pair is $3,200 installed. The sump pump estimator helps you decide whether you need one.
What’s different in Warrenton
Nobody counts Warrenton’s basements; the Census doesn’t ask. The Town’s utility design manual takes them for granted: where floor levels aren’t known yet, it sets a new sewer main deep enough to drain a cellar six feet below the street. Close to three in ten homes in town went up before 1960, and in the oldest of them the pit, if there is one, was most likely cut in later, wherever the water showed up, so we check its depth and walls before the new pump goes in.
The Town Code is plain about where that water may not go. Groundwater, subsurface drainage and roof runoff are barred from the sanitary sewer, and no downspout may be tied into it, so a sump hose run to a laundry tub or a floor drain has to come out. The usual answer is a line that ends on the lawn, pointed downhill and away from the foundation.
Not every pit in a Warrenton basement is a sump. The Code requires a drain that sits too low to reach the sewer by gravity to be lifted by a pump, so a basement bathroom or laundry below the sewer line drains to a sealed pit with a vent pipe: a sewage ejector. That’s its own job with its own written price. The $697 figure here is for a sump pump in a groundwater pit.
Out past the town limits, New Baltimore is almost entirely single-family houses, and close to half went up in 2000 or later, Brookside among them. A basement from those years often still has the pit the builder set. Brookside and Vint Hill drain to FCWSA’s sewer, and the Authority’s standards bar a sump pump from connecting to it, directly or indirectly. Where New Baltimore is on septic, the pump’s water belongs in the yard just the same, never in the tank.
Neighborhood by neighborhood
Census figures for the owner-occupied homes in each place, and what to check on a sump pump in houses that age.
| Place | Median home built | Most homes are | Heated with | What to check |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| New Baltimore | 1999 | single-family houses, nearly all | gas, about 5 in 10 | 1980s and 90s basements: an original pump is long overdue. |
| Warrenton | 1993 | single-family houses, about 5 in 10 | gas, about 6 in 10 | 1980s and 90s basements: an original pump is long overdue. |
By the numbers
From the Census Bureau’s 2020 to 2024 survey, owner-occupied homes unless it says otherwise.
Inside the town limits, a little over 4 of the roughly 110 square miles the two Warrenton ZIP codes cover: the Historic District around Main Street, Leeds Square, and the streets off Broadview Avenue and Alwington Boulevard.
New Baltimore only. It’s the one Census place on the county side with mostly Warrenton mail, so the farms and lots beyond it aren’t in these figures.
When it’s time
The Town Code forbids it: groundwater may not go into the sanitary sewer. Moving the discharge outside is discharge line work, priced in writing before we start.
Zoeller, who make a lot of the pumps around here, puts a sump pump’s life at seven to ten years. Past seven, replace it on your schedule instead of the storm’s.
Water is running back into the pit through a check valve that no longer closes, so the pump moves the same water again and again until it wears out.
After a heavy rain
Six checks you can make yourself once the rain lets up, none of them with your hands in the pit. Then call us and we’ll check it all.
Watch the pit during the rain or right after. The pump should start as the water rises, empty the pit and shut off. A full pit, or a pump that hums and moves nothing, isn’t keeping up.
Walk the basement: the corners, the walls, the floor by the pit, under the water heater and the furnace. Photograph any wet spot before you mop, so we can see where it came in.
Outside, find where the pump’s pipe ends. It should be open, not crushed, buried or full of leaves, and aimed away from the house so the water doesn’t run back to the foundation.
Listen when the pump shuts off. Water rushing back into the pit means the check valve isn’t closing, and the pump has to move that water again.
The pump stops when the power does, often at the height of the storm. If the basement took water during an outage, that’s the job a battery backup does.
If water is standing near the pit, an outlet or anything plugged in, don’t wade in to check. Call us, and only switch the power off at the panel from somewhere dry.
Not sure what you saw? Call us after a storm and we’ll check it all: the pump, the float, the check valve, the discharge line and where the water came in. If the pump can’t keep up, a new one is $697 installed in your existing pit; a new or deeper pit, a battery backup, discharge line work outside and a dedicated circuit are extra, priced in writing before we start.
Choosing who replaces it
Questions to ask anybody who quotes you, us included.
A sealed lid with a vent pipe, and a toilet or washer draining into it, means a sewage ejector, not a sump. Ask anyone quoting a sump pump replacement to look inside first, because the two are different pumps and different prices.
Ask what the number covers: the pump, the check valve, the pipe, hauling the old one off, a test before they leave. Then ask what costs extra, and get it in writing.
Cast iron, ideally. Plastic pumps cost less and are usually the ones that quit early. Ask before the old one comes out.
A discharge line that’s cracked, buried or frozen shut every January leaves the new pump pushing against a closed pipe. Whoever replaces it should check the outside end too.
Two of our crew going over a work order before the day's calls.
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Questions
The owner, as a rule, since the pump belongs to the house. Close to four households in ten inside the town limits rent. If it runs nonstop or not at all, tell your landlord now, and pass along that a replacement in the existing pit is $697 installed, with any extras priced in writing first.
Footing and foundation drain water is allowed in the Town’s storm drainage system, but its code bars opening a connection into an inlet or catch basin without the town manager’s authorization, and washer or floor drain water may not go that way.
Warrenton gets the kind of rain that tests one. NOAA’s Storm Events Database has Lee Highway flooded and closed in town between Comfort Inn Drive and Dumfries Road in July 2017, and the Frytown Road bridge over Cedar Run, just east of town, under water in August 2018. After rain like that, look in the pit while the ground is still soaked: the pump should start, empty it and stop. Then find where its pipe ends outside and make sure the water heads downhill, away from the house. The Town’s own flood checklist tells residents to install check valves and to consider a sump pump with a battery. Call us when the rain stops and we’ll look over the pump, its float, the valve and the line. If it can’t keep up, a new one in the same pit is $697 installed, with anything extra priced in writing first.
$697 installed in your existing pit: a new cast iron pump, a quiet check valve, new PVC to your discharge line, a battery water alarm, the old pump hauled away and a bucket test. A new or deeper pit, discharge line work outside, a battery backup and a dedicated circuit are extra, priced in writing before we start. A new pump and a battery backup installed together are $3,200.
Yes. Pour five gallons of water into the pit. The float should rise, the pump should start within a few seconds, and it should shut off clean once the water’s down. If you hear water rushing back into the pit after it stops, that’s the check valve.
Ready when you are
Call, or send the form at the top. Often same-day, and we will tell you honestly when we can get there.
SwiftPro Heating, Cooling & Plumbing
4230 Lafayette Center Dr N, Chantilly, VA 20151
44679 Endicott Dr, Suite 211, Ashburn, VA 20147
Virginia Class A contractor license #2705192276
SwiftPro Heating, Cooling & Plumbing is a licensed, BBB Accredited (A rating), independently owned heating, cooling and plumbing company in Chantilly, serving Warrenton and the rest of Northern Virginia. Virginia contractor license #2705192276. 5.0 stars across 1,132 reviews on Google, Angi, Yelp, the BBB and Facebook. SwiftPro maintains a dedicated HVAC team and a dedicated plumbing team.
From SwiftPro Heating, Cooling & Plumbing in Chantilly. Housing figures are the Census Bureau’s American Community Survey, 2020 to 2024, for each place named; permit, water and sewer facts link to each office’s own page and were checked in September and October 2026.