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Sump pump replacement in Gainesville: $697 installed in your existing pit. A new pit, a battery backup, outside drain work or new wiring is extra.
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5.0 stars across 1,132 reviews
Two of our technicians in a basement mechanical room, beside the furnace and a gas water heater.
Licensed and insuredVirginia Class A contractor #2705192276
24/7 emergency serviceOften same-day, and we will tell you honestly when we can get there.
Our own plumbers, our own trucksNobody here is a subcontractor with a magnet on the door
The price is settled before the workYou see the number in writing before anything is taken apart
What it costs
The same price as our sump pump replacement page: one flat number for a new pump in a pit that’s still sound, with what costs extra named right beside it.
Sump pump replacement, installed in your existing pit
$697
Sump pump and battery backup, installed together
$3,200
or $53/mo at 0% APR for 60 months
A new or deeper pit, discharge line work outside, or a dedicated circuit
Priced in writing before we start
Monthly figures: 60mo @ 0% APR on each starting price, the whole price financed, on approved credit. Longer plans lower the payment and cost more in total. The lender sets the final terms. How financing works
$697 covers a new cast iron pump, a quiet check valve, new PVC up to your existing discharge line, a battery water alarm by the pit, the old pump hauled away and a bucket test before we leave.
A battery backup keeps pumping through a power outage, and the outage usually comes with the storm. With a new pump, the pair is $3,200 installed. The sump pump estimator helps you decide whether you need one.
What’s different in Gainesville
First, do you have one? The Census doesn’t ask about basements, so it can’t say how many Gainesville homes have a pit. It does say a little over half are detached houses, about a third townhouses, and about one in sixteen in condo or apartment buildings, where an upper-floor flat has nothing to pump. If your lowest level is below ground, look in the unfinished corner or the utility room for a round basin set in the floor with a pipe rising out of it.
Where there is one, the ground keeps it busy. Sampled across the Census’s Gainesville, Prince William County’s soils map puts about half the land in Category II, which its standards tie to a high groundwater table, seasonal or perched, and about four in ten in Category III. Water in ground like that has nowhere quick to go, so it gathers around the footings and the drain tile carries it to the pit.
Then there’s the pump’s age. About four in ten owner homes here went up in the 2000s, and a pump that came with one of them has been replaced already or is on borrowed years. Another four in ten went up from 2010 on, under a county policy from November 2006 that has the builder prove the sump pump works at the final inspection. The pump that passed that test may still be yours.
The same policy lets the discharge end two feet from the foundation, as long as the ground falls away. Prince William Water counts a sump pump piped into the sewer as an improper connection, one cause of sewer overflows, and leaves sump pump repairs to the owner. In Virginia Oaks, moving the discharge in a way that changes grading or drainage needs the association’s approved Exterior Changes Application first.
By the numbers
From the Census Bureau’s 2020 to 2024 survey, owner-occupied homes unless it says otherwise.
When it’s time
If the ground where the sump line empties stays soggy between storms, the water may be soaking back to the footings and returning to the pit. In wet ground that loop can run a pump all spring. Carrying the line farther out is outside work, priced in writing first.
Zoeller, who make a lot of the pumps around here, puts a sump pump’s life at seven to ten years. Past seven, replace it on your schedule instead of the storm’s.
Water is running back into the pit through a check valve that no longer closes, so the pump moves the same water again and again until it wears out.
After a heavy rain
Six checks you can make yourself once the rain lets up, none of them with your hands in the pit. Then call us and we’ll check it all.
Watch the pit during the rain or right after. The pump should start as the water rises, empty the pit and shut off. A full pit, or a pump that hums and moves nothing, isn’t keeping up.
Walk the basement: the corners, the walls, the floor by the pit, under the water heater and the furnace. Photograph any wet spot before you mop, so we can see where it came in.
Outside, find where the pump’s pipe ends. It should be open, not crushed, buried or full of leaves, and aimed away from the house so the water doesn’t run back to the foundation.
Listen when the pump shuts off. Water rushing back into the pit means the check valve isn’t closing, and the pump has to move that water again.
The pump stops when the power does, often at the height of the storm. If the basement took water during an outage, that’s the job a battery backup does.
If water is standing near the pit, an outlet or anything plugged in, don’t wade in to check. Call us, and only switch the power off at the panel from somewhere dry.
Not sure what you saw? Call us after a storm and we’ll check it all: the pump, the float, the check valve, the discharge line and where the water came in. If the pump can’t keep up, a new one is $697 installed in your existing pit; a new or deeper pit, a battery backup, discharge line work outside and a dedicated circuit are extra, priced in writing before we start.
Choosing who replaces it
Questions to ask anybody who quotes you, us included.
On high water table ground, a pump that runs for days after rain may be fine. One that runs through a dry week in August points to a stuck float, a leaky check valve or water coming back from outside. Ask which before anybody sells you a bigger pump.
Ask what the number covers: the pump, the check valve, the pipe, hauling the old one off, a test before they leave. Then ask what costs extra, and get it in writing.
Cast iron, ideally. Plastic pumps cost less and are usually the ones that quit early. Ask before the old one comes out.
A discharge line that’s cracked, buried or frozen shut every January leaves the new pump pushing against a closed pipe. Whoever replaces it should check the outside end too.
Two of our crew going over a work order before the day's calls.
From our Google reviews
5.0 stars across 1,132 reviews. Read them on our reviews page.
Replaced 2 sump pumps. Very professional, proficient, and courteous.
Where we work
Next door to Gainesville: Catharpin, Haymarket, Broad Run, Bristow and The Plains.
Questions
It may be. The county has had builders show the pump running at the final inspection since late 2006, and nothing replaces it unless it fails or somebody plans ahead. No date on the label and no receipt usually means it’s the builder’s.
Some do. Heritage Hunt has more than 30 models, from condominiums to five-bedroom houses, so it depends on whether yours has a level below ground. In its four condominiums, ask the association first: a pit serving the building is usually theirs.
They can. In the May 2012 flash flooding that closed Linton Hall Road and the John Marshall Highway intersection at Catharpin Road, NOAA’s storm events database notes a nearby gauge at 4.59 inches, and on July 16, 2025 Little Bull Run rose past minor flood stage in less than an hour. On high water table ground a downpour like that can reach the pit fast. The checklist on this page is the place to start once it passes.
$697 installed in your existing pit: a new cast iron pump, a quiet check valve, new PVC to your discharge line, a battery water alarm, the old pump hauled away and a bucket test. A new or deeper pit, discharge line work outside, a battery backup and a dedicated circuit are extra, priced in writing before we start. A new pump and a battery backup installed together are $3,200.
Yes. Pour five gallons of water into the pit. The float should rise, the pump should start within a few seconds, and it should shut off clean once the water’s down. If you hear water rushing back into the pit after it stops, that’s the check valve.
Ready when you are
Call, or send the form at the top. Often same-day, and we will tell you honestly when we can get there.
SwiftPro Heating, Cooling & Plumbing
4230 Lafayette Center Dr N, Chantilly, VA 20151
44679 Endicott Dr, Suite 211, Ashburn, VA 20147
Virginia Class A contractor license #2705192276
SwiftPro Heating, Cooling & Plumbing is a licensed, BBB Accredited (A rating), independently owned heating, cooling and plumbing company in Chantilly, serving Gainesville and the rest of Northern Virginia. Virginia contractor license #2705192276. 5.0 stars across 1,132 reviews on Google, Angi, Yelp, the BBB and Facebook. SwiftPro maintains a dedicated HVAC team and a dedicated plumbing team.
From SwiftPro Heating, Cooling & Plumbing in Chantilly. Housing figures are the Census Bureau’s American Community Survey, 2020 to 2024, for each place named; permit, water and sewer facts link to each office’s own page and were checked in September and October 2026.